Bakuchiol vs retinol: what the research says, and which to choose

Bakuchiol has gone from niche to everywhere as "nature's retinol". But is it really an alternative, or just a gentler-sounding label? Here's an honest look at the research and how to choose, with our serums as examples.

What is bakuchiol?

Bakuchiol is a compound from the seeds and leaves of the babchi plant (Psoralea corylifolia), long used in traditional medicine. It isn't a form of vitamin A and works differently, but lab research found it switches on many of the same skin-renewal genes as retinol. That's where the "retinol alternative" name comes from.

What the research found

The best-known study compared a 0.5% bakuchiol cream twice a day with a 0.5% retinol cream once a day in 44 people for 12 weeks. Both groups saw similar improvements in wrinkles and pigmentation. The bakuchiol group reported less scaling and stinging. An earlier study also found smoother-looking skin after 12 weeks of bakuchiol.

The honest caveat: these are small studies. Retinol still has far more evidence behind it. Bakuchiol is promising and gentle, not proven to be identical.

Bakuchiol vs retinol at a glance

Our bakuchiol and retinol-free picks

Our Bakuchiol Oil Serum pairs 1% bakuchiol with 1.5% rosehip oil in a waterless night oil, for skin that feels soft and looks even, glowing and smooth. It's dermatologically tested, COSMOS Organic (61% organic) and vegan. Press a few drops on as the last step at night.

Prefer a light serum? Our Retinol Alternative Serum uses 2% bidens pilosa extract, a different plant alternative to retinol, for smoother-looking texture and softer-looking lines, morning and night. Follow it with the Retinol Alternative Moisturizer.

Can you use bakuchiol and retinol together?

Yes. Some formulas combine them on purpose, because bakuchiol may help retinol feel gentler. If you use both, introduce one at a time. A simple way: retinol two or three nights a week, bakuchiol on the other nights.

Weighing up peptides too? Read peptide serum vs retinol.

How to choose

• Sensitive skin, or retinol made you peel: start with bakuchiol.
• Experienced with actives and want maximum evidence: retinol, slowly, with daily sunscreen.
• Pregnant or breastfeeding: skip retinoids and ask your doctor before any active.

Frequently asked questions

Is bakuchiol as effective as retinol?

One 12-week study of 44 people found 0.5% bakuchiol twice daily gave similar improvements in wrinkles and pigmentation to 0.5% retinol once daily, with less irritation. It's promising, but the evidence is much smaller than for retinol.

Is bakuchiol safe during pregnancy?

Bakuchiol isn't a retinoid, but there's little safety data in pregnancy. Ask your doctor or midwife before using it.

Can I use bakuchiol and retinol together?

Yes. They can be layered or alternated, and bakuchiol may help retinol feel gentler. Introduce one at a time.

Does bakuchiol make skin sensitive to the sun?

Sun sensitivity isn't reported for bakuchiol the way it is for retinol, but daily sunscreen is still wise with any anti-aging routine.

Is bakuchiol good for acne?

Some small studies suggest it may help, but evidence is limited. For acne, a dermatologist can recommend proven options.

Sources

Dhaliwal S. et al. Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. British Journal of Dermatology, 2019;180(2):289–296.
Chaudhuri R.K., Bojanowski K. Bakuchiol: a retinol-like functional compound revealed by gene expression profiling and clinically proven to have anti-aging effects. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2014;36(3):221–230.
Product details are taken from the exokiss product pages. This article is general information, not medical advice.